Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Bellagio - Part 1

Every trip deserves a theme song. David and Geoffrey taught me that.  So for my Italian odyssey, as friend and colleague Kevin S likes to call this sojourn away, the theme song was Be Italian, from the musical Nine.



For the road trip to Montepulciano with Buzz and Lori, we listened to Diana Krall, but also a group called Manhattan Transfer.  It wasn’t a theme song, per se, but rather, theme music.  When I was a wee baby gay growing up in Ottawa in the late 1970’s, my best friend Patrick (Raef) Mikhail introduced me to Manhattan Transfer, and right then and there, I knew what kind of music I was going to listen to my whole life.





For the trip to Barcelona, there were not one, but two theme songs.  The first was a duet from 1987 with the late Freddie Mercury, of Queen fame, and opera diva Montserrat Caballé celebrating Barcelona and the 1988 Summer Olympics.




The second was also a duet from one of my favorite musicals, Company.



What to do about a theme song for a 3-day escape to Bellagio with Buzz and Lori?  Well, Bellagio is located on Lago Como, in the northern part of Italy.  The northern part of Italy is mountainous…and we were going to the Alps.  So…I started channelling Julie Andrews, and this became our official theme song for the voyage.  And what a wonderful voyage it was!


 
Getting to Bellagio was a bit like “Trains, Planes and Automobiles”, but with a substitution of planes for a boat.  A cab took us to Firenze’s main train station where we boarded the high speed train to Milano.  It was only Buzz and Lori’s second time a train, and while we didn’t quite reach 300km going to Milan, we certainly did on the return trip!  We changed trains in Milano for the city of Como, which also required a change of train’s en-route. 


Buzz and Lori, on the train to Bellagio

Our connection in Saronno was only 15 minutes, and we were gabbing on the platform and enjoying the warm weather and waiting for the train which didn’t come at the appointed time.  Trains in Italy are seldom late.  With a minute before we were supposed to leave, I said to Buzz & Lori, “I think that train over there is our train.”  Sure enough, we were waiting on the wrong platform, so we RAN to catch the correct train only to have it pull away as we reached the top of the stairs.  Luckily, service to Como is every 30 minutes, so we laughed it off and had a café in the station.  All the while I was kicking myself for having stood on the wrong platform. I should have known better.


Do we look like we missed the train?

Our third train was a real regionale, probably built in the 1970’s, and full of high school students, locals, and a few tourists heading north.  A double-track became a single track, and our ears started to pop as we climbed higher in elevation. 

A lakeside villa on Lago Como

With each break in the trees and around every curve, the snow-capped Alps grew larger.  I kept threatening to break-out in our theme song, but Lori said she’s throw me off the train if I started singing!  It’s a good thing I can’t sing.


Bellagio - lower right corner

Once in Como, we RAN to catch the high-speed ferry boat to Bellagio – with NO time to spare. We hopped aboard and the ferry departed for a lovely 40 minute ride up Lago Como to Bellagio. The scenery departing Como was beautiful enough, but once on the lake, it kept getting better and better.  We made 5 or 6 quick stops along the way, and once Bellagio was in view, Lori pointed and said, “That’s Bellagio over there!”  From a distance, it was a tiny monochromatic town of beige set against towering mountains of green.  If the Amalfi coast is a slice of heaven on the Mediterranean, Bellagio is a slice of heaven in the Alps!



Our lovely hotel was about 20 paces in front of the ferry dock (pontile) so finding our hotel was not a problem.  We checked in, admired the view and the rooms, and then headed out for a drink. It was a long voyage and we were all thirsty.


Arrival Drinks at San Remo, Bellagio

Two rounds of beer (Buzz and Lori) and half a litre of wine (me) later, we strolled up into town and stumbled across a lovely little bar.  There was an empty wine casket-cum-glass-topped-table in the front window, so we made ourselves comfortable.  We enjoyed some great antipasti, managed to drink two bottles of prosecco, and Lori found a new boyfriend-cum-barkeep called Livio.  Livio works 8 months of the year keeping bar, and spends the off-season travelling the world.  Tough work, but someone’s got to serve the tourists!


Lori and Livio

We regrouped for aperitivo at the bar at Hotel Florence and then dinner at a restaurant called Far Out, where I got to sample the local Lago Como fish, Lavarello.  It was yummy and the perfect ending to a long but satisfying day.
Smooching at Livio's bar
What's a day in Lago Como without a mention of George Clooney